Rigging Tips: The Howe Traveler
By George Smart (T-232)
An emergence among Fleet I
sailors is a simplified adjustable traveler that replaces the non-adjustable
traveler supplied with the standard Tanzer 16 by the factory. It has the
advantages of being self-tacking, reasonably inexpensive, relatively easy to
install and easy to use. Weldon Howe, formerly a Y-Flyer skipper from the
midwest, skipper of T-901, Fleet 1 member and a Carolina Sailing Club
Commodore, and currently a resident of Oriental, North Carolina (often the
location of many district and national events), deserves full credit for the
development of this type traveler for use on the Tanzer 16. Now that you know
about the namesake of the "Howe Traveler", here's how it works:
The very simple concept of the
Howe Traveler (or any traveler, for that matter) is that it allows the
mainsheet to tighten the leech of the main with the boom positioned off-center
of the boat varying amounts for varying wind conditions. This is very
advantageous in dealing with heavy air, and permits adjustment of the angle of
attack of the sail without allowing the main to become full and overpowered.
In heavy air the main should be flattened to take out the draft reducing the
overturning moment, with the boom positioned to leeward. This is easy for the
skipper to accomplish while at the helm in heavy air with the one-line, in/out
control of the Howe Traveler. Loosening the setting allows for a wide sheeting
angle (heavy air) and tightening the setting allows for a closer sheeting angle
(moderate to lighter air). Tacking is no problem. Once the desired boom
position is set, the traveler will automatically come to that same position on
the other tack with no further adjustment required after a tack.
Installation is easy with only
minimum modifications required to the boat. Recommended materials for the job,
are:
2 Harken through-deck blocks
1 deck-mounted fairlead eye
1 cam cleat
12 feet 3/8" low-stretch line
As shown in the diagrams, the
through-deck blocks should be located on the deck at the transom in line with
the traveler bar, and 4"-6" away from the rails. If you do not have
through-deck spinnaker sheet blocks, be sure to leave enough room for their
future addition. Drill a 1/2" pilot hole after the blocks are laid out on
the deck and cut the rectangular opening with a saber saw. The edges may need
to be smoothed with a wood rasp to ensure a snug fit of the block in the hole.
The blocks should be secured with wood screws or through-bolted. To install
the fairlead eye and earn cleat it is necessary to glue and/or screw 5/8"
plywood mounting blocks about 3" x 3" to the underside of the rear deck
with epoxy and wood screws. These mounting blocks are needed to establish
proper clearance beneath the deck and provide proper alignment for the traveler
sheet to pass through the hole in the bulkhead into the cockpit. Position the
mounting blocks as shown, and install the fairlead eye and cam cleat with wood
screws. The hole in the bulkhead should be cut the same way as in the deck.
Before installation, be sure to fit up all the pieces in a dry run to ensure
proper clearances and alignment. Getting into the lazarette compartment is a
trick, but using boat cushions over the opening helps case the uncomfortable
aspects of the job.